But Anachere is a two-day trip from San Borja by motorized dugout canoe, so the Tsimane living there still get most of their food from the forest, the river, or their gardens. More than 15,000 Tsimane live in about a hundred villages along two rivers in the Amazon Basin near the main market town of San Borja, 225 miles from La Paz. It’s the rainy season, when it’s hardest to hunt or fish. The story is similar for each of the families I visit in Anachere, a community of about 90 members of the ancient Tsimane Indian tribe.

He can’t fish on the river because a storm washed away his canoe. But when he finally sits down to eat his porridge from a metal bowl, he complains that it’s hard to get enough meat for his family: two wives (not uncommon in the tribe) and 12 children. At 39, he’s an energetic guy who doesn’t seem easily defeated-when he isn’t hunting or fishing or weaving palm fronds into roof panels, he’s in the woods carving a new canoe from a log. This evening, however, Nate emerges from the forest with no meat. If he was lucky, Nate would spot one of the biggest packets of meat in the forest-tapirs, with long, prehensile snouts that rummage for buds and shoots among the damp ferns. There he silently scanned the canopy for brown capuchin monkeys and raccoonlike coatis, while his dog sniffed the ground for the scent of piglike peccaries or reddish brown capybaras. Nate left before dawn on this day in January with his rifle and machete to get an early start on the two-hour trek to the old-growth forest. “The children are sad when there is no meat,” Maito says through an interpreter, as she swats away mosquitoes. With an infant girl nursing at her breast and a seven-year-old boy tugging at her sleeve, she looks spent when she tells me that she hopes her husband, Deonicio Nate, will bring home meat tonight.

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